Driving In Addis Ababa

Well getting my licence did not prove to be that difficult thanks to Paul's driver Robel.  Robel went to the Ministry with my documentation in hand and waited and waited and waited.   Once it was his turn the actual churning out of the licence was relatively quick.  I have no idea why it would take a day and half to be served, but all the same I was extremely appreciative that I was not the one doing the waiting.  The Ministry issues you  the licence, but you then have to go have it laminated as who would willingly want to repeat this whole process when the licence falls apart? So the lamination took another day and by Thursday Paul brought home my shiny, new Ethiopian licence.

The next step in the driving process would now involve real life road experience.  Yes, Dorothy we're definitely not in Kansas and after my first road test I seriously wondered if in fact we were actually in a place that even had the first clue about driving.  I should qualify that.  Ethiopians do know how to drive, they just have no record for road rules and driving etiquette.  Paul wisely suggested we drive on the weekend as the roads are not as crowded and it would help ease me into the Ethiopian driving experience.  We went out to do our Saturday shopping with me behind the wheel.  It was wonderful having Paul there, not only as a sanity check, but also for his coaching and navigational skills.  We have downloaded Ethiopia to our Garmin GPS, but it's still helpful to have someone else in the car interpret some of the instructions being given in an Aussie accent. What I find amazing in Addis are the number of U-turns one makes to reach one's destination.  It's just a built in sixth sense that you will need to be prepared to do a u-turn or two.  No one gets fussed when you hold up traffic waiting for an opening and it only gets dicey when more than one car tries to make the turn at the same time.  I was thrilled to say that on my first day on the road that I successfully made 4 u-turns, was forced to parallel park (well sort of if you can call it that and still be 3 feet from the curb), navigated 3 traffic circles and went through numerous intersections that at times had a traffic cop, as traffic lights are almost non-existent.

We went driving on Sunday and though the roads were not too crowded I still had to be very vigilant. The rule of driving is to always be aware to the car in front of you, coming up beside you (lane lines are arbitrarily ignored), or attempting to t-bone you because the right away depends on whose nose is out the furthest.  No time for day dreaming or idle chitchat, or perhaps, not until I develop more confidence. So after my first weekend of driving I claim success; Paul is still willing to drive with me and I am still willing to drive!

Tuesday I decided to try driving solo.  I needed to go to the Tanzania Embassy to inquire about travel Visas. Trying to call the Embassy proved to be very frustrating, so I decided to drive.  I chose to go around 1 pm so that rush hour traffic (Toronto has NOTHING on Addis) wouldn't be a problem.  The Embassy is only around 2 kms, but it felt like 12.  It involved going through an intersection, but fortunately there was a policeman semi-directing (semi confiscating licence plates) traffic and then an inevitable u-turn.  Then I had to park, but fortunately I was saved the humiliation of parallel parking by being able to drive forward into a spot.  I was immediately approached by little boy who offered to wash, clean my windows or guard my car. I smiled and said I wouldn't be long.  I went into the Tanzania Embassy and seriously, the Canadian Embassy could take some decorating tips from Tanzania.  It's a nice, stately place, not plain and industrial,  like the Canadian Embassy.  Anyways spoke with reception and was given the information on Visas, including the application forms.  As I approached my car the little boy came running over to assure me that he had successfully "guarded" my car.  I gave him 1 birr and this promptly got the attention of his four friends who I can only assume helped him with his guard duty.  The value of 1 birr is so small for a ferenji (foreigner) and yet it elicits such smiles from the recipients.  You can't help but feel like you've done some good.

I continued my journey home and arrived  feeling a sense of pride and accomplishment.  This driving thing will not be as bad as I thought as long as I limit my driving to off peak hours and I learn to think and drive more like an Ethiopian and less like a ferenji. 

2 Licences have to be better than 1, right?

Put the licences away, you're supposed to be driving

Careful, more road hazards to follow!

Seriously, can you say asphalt??

12 12 Yo!  Could this BE a better Licence Plate Number?

The Shipment has finally landed!

It seems a long time since June 26, 2013 when the packers from Crown Storage came and packed up the household items that Paul and I chose to ship to Addis Ababa. It's a tricky job trying to decide what to send. It's an impossible feat to attempt to re-create another home by shipping everything.  The goal is to ship those things that remind you of home and help create the feeling of home despite the 7000 mile degree of separation.  Pictures are key, but we needed to make some hard choices.  Gail can attest to how many pictures I have stored at her house. I wanted to bring the entire pictorial history of the Girl's ringette careers, but that would likely have blown our shipping budget.  When you consider how many pictures one takes of major events in life, narrowing down the choices was difficult, but not impossible.  We then sent items that would be difficult or expensive to get here: anti-gravity lawn chairs for those leisurely Saturday mornings on our patio,a  patio set, carpets for our living and dining rooms, our mattress, duvet covers, pillows, towels, and even our favorite games (Balderdash, Scattegories, Ticket to Ride, Uno).  It's difficult to describe the emotion of actually seeing these commonplace things scattered around our new "home".   It's an absolutely amazing and emotional experience.
The shipment left Canada July 6th via Ethiopian Airlines Flight 503 and arrived in Addis Ababa July 7, 2013.  The airport is a mere 3 kms from our home, but it would take  47 days before the shipment would find its way to our address.  Why you ask?  Well as I expounded in an earlier blog, TIA (This Is Africa).  I thought I had grasped the significance of TIA, but I was dumbfounded by the more than 12 letters back and forth from Paul, the Canadian Embassy, and Ethiopian customs, the number of calls back and forth between Paul, the shippers. the Embassy and Customs, and the numerous promises and subsequent disappointments that was our lot for 47 long days.  The absurdity behind some of the requests by Customs just boggled the mind.  Customs had a copy of the packing slip and over the 47 long days they nitpicked over virtually every item.  I was extremely grateful that they had Crown's more generic listing rather than the mind numbing itemization that I had typed up for our records. Just think how much longer Customs could have prolonged this ordeal.  Customs needed a letter to confirm that the dog food we had shipped was not for commercial use.  Seriously, how much was to be gained ($$) with one (1) bag of dog food despite the fact that it was a Costco size bag? Or they appeared quite concerned with our bathroom supplies?  Shampoo, body wash, toothpaste and soap? What's up with that.  Our shipment (dog food and all) qualified under the provisions of duty free status.  What after all did it matter to Customs since there was nothing to be gained by scrutinizing the shipment?  What didn't  they get about "duty free approved"??  Well it took them 47 days to "get it" and for that we are extremely grateful.  I had visions of just changing the address label on the shipment for our return flight home.  So all things being equal, its presence here gives Paul and me much joy and a feeling that home isn't that far away.  Home is what you make of it.

You'd be worse for wear IF you had to hang out at the Airport for 47 days.

Foyer Treat for Visitors

Comforts of home.

Dining just got a whole lot more crowded. Addis welcomes our kids!

An Authentic Ethiopian Meal

We've been enjoying our Ethiopian experience,but we thought we would ramp it up a few notches by trying the foods endemic to Ethiopia.  Aynalem, as our housekeeper, cook, dog baby sitter, personal shopper (aka, indispensable) was our go-to person.  When we approached her to ask if she would make us an authentic Ethiopian meal she was more than willing. It's not that she hasn't adapted well to making meals more in keeping with our North American tastes, but here was her chance to make us food she had grown up with.  We were not disappointed.  She made enough food to feed Paul and me for a month so we took the opportunity to invite Aynalem, her husband and Temesgen.   Aynalem cooked all day and it was well worth the wait.  We enjoyed dishes of lentils, split peas, veal, chicken, potatoes, carrot and cabbage, spinach and injera.

Wat is traditionally eaten with injera, a spongy flat bread made from the millet-like grain known as teff.  Wat is an Ethiopian and Eritrean stew or curry that may be prepared with chicken, beef, lamb, and a variety of vegetables. Doro wat is one such stew, made from chicken. We enjoyed doro wat, veal wat, potato and carrot wat and assorted vegetable dishes (lentils, split peas and spinach).  You basically use the injera to eat your food in lieu of cutlery. Paul is a pro, but given that we had guests I didn't want to show my ineptitude. I resorted to a knife and fork. I will practice again, but in a more private setting. They all made it look so easy, but trust me it isn't, although I needed countless napkins, no else did. Hmmm? As I said I will need lots of practice. For now I will stick to "traditional" cutlery before switching to injera as the cutlery of Ethiopia.

After enjoying this wonderfully delicious and flavorful meal Aynalem treated us to a traditional Ethiopian 

coffee ceremony.  The coffee beans are cooked over a coal stove, then ground and poured into a traditional  Ethiopian coffee pot.  What an amazing end to a wonderful meal.  The coffee is served in small coffee cups. Although the coffee is very strong, it is so amazingly smooth. The tradition is to have 3 cups, but Paul and I wanted to be able to fall asleep that night so we limited ourselves to 2 cups. What a wonderful end to an evening.  We will continue to try other Ethiopian food, but thanks to Aynalem we are off to an excellent start.

Grinding the cooked coffee beans
  Our first of many traditional evenings in Ethiopia.   

Saturday in Addis Ababa

I remembered last night to remind Paul to turn off his alarm.  The dulcet tones of his alarm are reserved for Monday to Friday, but hello, weekend sleep-ins.  It's not like Paul ever over does the whole sleep in thing, but even waking at 8:30 is infinitely better than 6:30.  We had our morning coffee on the porch and it was bright and sunny.  Yes, this is still wet season, but the sun does try and make a daily appearance.  We decided to do our morning workout since after all we had lugged our elliptical bike, yoga mat (still in it's original packaging) exercise tapes courtesy of my nephew Barrett all the way from Ottawa.  Our house in Addis has a large room on the top floor which could easily accommodate a Good Life work out class, but alas, it's just me, Paul and Lexxie.  We have a TV up there and we set up our Sony sound system which aside from sound has a DVD player.  So we climbed the 3 flights and began our work out.  Paul followed along with the stretching warm up while Lexxie lounged on my yoga mat.  As I moved into the routines that target those oh so fun areas of the body that love to accumulate fat and rolls and other unpleasant evidence of the fact, that, yes, it's true I never work out, but now that Paul has prepared this room for me, it's the very least I can do.  Paul got on the elliptical, a discipline, that he has really maintained because it helps strengthen his legs and keeps him from stiffening up.  I gained a healthier husband, but lost a clothes rack (elliptical).  So here I am hitting the mat and doing the exercises (2 more, breathe, breathe, almost there) and the power goes off.  Is this a sign?  You be the judge.  I've been doing the routine twice a week over the last few weeks so I knew enough of the routine to continue.  The power goes off daily, but not usually for long stretches.  It came on again after about 5 minutes and I re-started the routine.  I completed thighs, abs and was into my third routine (butt) when the power went off again.  Oh well you can only be given so many signs.  We decided to take advantage of the sunshine and take a walk around our neighborhood. Lexxie has not been beyond our fenced and gated yard so this was a nice morning to do some exploring.  Our neighborhood is a variety of big houses, some row houses (apartments) and a number of houses that are under construction.  All the homes are gated and there is lots of activity on the streets.  As we were passing by a group of boys, kicking a ball around, they called out, seemingly interested in Lexxie. We stopped so they could get a better view of her as I rarely miss an opportunity to show off my dog.  They gathered round her and one boy asks, "Is it a sheep?"  What?  No!  So, perhaps Ethiopians are  not that familiar with poodles. I decided to take the high road here and we continued our walk, but decided against further conversations with bystanders.

After brunch we went out to get groceries.  Everything is readily available in Addis, but you have to know where to go and it takes a lot of time and numerous stops.  Parking is not always convenient and now that it had started to rain, needless to say my earlier choice of strappy sandals no longer seemed like such a good idea. It was going fine until my right foot stepped ankle deep into a mud puddle.  Nice!  Not that little entrepreneurial shoe-shine boys weren't immediately at my side, but at this point, embarrassment prevailed and it was time to head home.  Once home I switched to more suitable footwear (boots) and it was now time for my manicure and Paul's haircut at The Oasis Spa located above Oh Canada.  The service is excellent, the staff wonderful and I'm sure we will be back to experience their other spa services. How can you beat paying under $5.00 for a wonderful manicure?  We finished the experience with dinner at Oh Canada.  Girls, you will be pleased to know that they offer poutine.  It was pretty good, despite the fact that they used shredded mozzarella, rather than cheese curds.  Oh well, pretty close! TIA

We're back and the rain is coming down hard, but it feels good to be safe and dry in the confines of home.

A New Week

Today started out in an unusual fashion, and by unusual I mean, I was up @ 6:45 AM.   This is the norm for Paul, but since today I would be going in with him to the office,  unusual or not, I was up.  How soon one forgets the routine of a typical work week.  My last day of work at the Ottawa Citizen was July 12, 2013 and I have, perhaps not surprisingly, slipped into a "work-free" routine. So even though getting up early was a bit tough, I needed to go to the Canadian Embassy which is located around the corner from Paul's office. The purpose of the visit is the first step towards obtaining a Driver's Licence.  It's difficult to reconcile the need for a licence with the quality of driving I've witnessed since my arrival.  Given that I plan on joining the throngs of "licensed" drivers in a city with a population of over 4 million, I need to follow the process. Ethiopia is all about processes and there are no short cuts.  So having survived my early wake up call I now find myself at the Canadian Embassy.  The entry process is likely no different than any other embassy around the world. First you have to show your Passport and then you have to relinquish any electronics (lap top, cell phone, etc). They give you back the Passport, but the electronics stay under lock and key (you are given the key) until you leave. I went through the main door and went to Reception.  An individual sits behind a 3 inch glass so hearing is a bit difficult, but I spoke clearly and leaned closer to hear. I had been told to ask for Rachel.  She eventually came out from an office beyond the reception glass structure to advise me to have a seat and the Consular would come and see me shortly. So I sit down and then the receptionist  immediately calls out that I am supposed to go through the door marked Consular.  Okay, so I do and this leads to a short hallway of around 5 feet to an identical window set- up like  reception. Seriously?  At least this time the "Consular clerk" had a microphone so yelling wasn't necessary and communication proved to be much easier.  Paul's office Administrator, Tsega had provided me with photocopies of all the documentation I would require (passport, Canadian driver's license and my Ethiopian Residency card) and as well told me to bring the fee of $50 US.  I pass all this information under the 3 inch glass and he glances at the contents of the envelope and says: "Originals" and then slides the envelope back to me. Oh yes of course I have the originals and I promptly give them to him and he says $50 Cdn. "Oh" I say, "I thought it was $50 US." Fortunately he gave me the option of paying in the local currency (ETB 920 Birr) He made his own photocopies (not sure why since I had copies) and then asked me to complete this form.  I started to complete the form at the counter, but he directed me back to the foyer. I looked around in surprise as there was no one else there, but I had to leave this little corridor and go back to the foyer and fill out the form while sitting in a chair with no hard surface. Here I am trying to write neatly on a form balanced on my knee.  For those who are familiar with my handwriting, these "conditions" didn't help.  Fortunately it was a short form.  I believe the form is intended to test you as to whether you know what is actually written on your Canadian driver's license.  I go back in and he now compares my answers to my actual license. (Got to love open book tests)  I paid my fee and he gave me a receipt to come back Wednesday. I asked at this point if he needed my picture "assuming" (oh silly rabbit) that on Wednesday I would be picking up my actual Ethiopian license.  "Oh no" he replies "you will take our official letter from the Canadian Embassy to the Ministry of Transport and they will be the ones who issue your license."  Yes, of course, this makes sense, 3 days for the Canadian Embassy to issue me a letter that says the documents I have produced are valid and more importantly I know how to regurgitate the contents of my Canadian driver's license.  Proof positive it would seem that I can drive since at no time during this whole process will I be required to prove I can drive. I just needed to prove that I indeed had a license. So the saga will continue on Wednesday, but I was smart enough to ask whether it was required that I pick up the letter in person.  Oh happy day, Paul is able to do that for me and I can get back to my "work-free" routine.  I'm still not sure how long before I actually have license in hand since TIA dictates that there still may be some more hoops to jump through. Stay tuned, but for now Addis is a safer place without me behind the wheel or is that the other way around?

Commenting on my Blog Posts 101

Hello All That Are Reading and Hopefully Enjoying My Blog:

I've been enjoying writing this blog as writing is a passion that I have severely neglected over the years due to the constraints of,  let's face it: life.  Life has a way of  getting in the way. It's filled with work, family and friends; all of which combine to make one's life fruitful and rewarding, so don't get me wrong I wouldn't have it any other way. But as I have the time now while in Ethiopia I am enjoying just writing the 'whole stream of consciousness' thing and blogging.  What does have me slightly perplexed is that I am not seeing any Comments?  In the immortal words of Led Zeppelin: "Is there anybody out there?"   So perhaps the whole Comment field has some of you perplexed, indifferent or just WTF?  Prepare to be enlightened so that each time I review my previous blogs I have 1 maybe 2, maybe more Comments which can be as simple as "Read ya" to "Hey, what's up with those typos" to "Love ya, keep blogging".

So once you have read a blog, scroll down to the bottom where it says "Posted by Katherine Gabel" and following this it will either say No Comments or (if some have already commented) it will read that number of comments made to date, ie 1 Comment. Click on either field and it will bring up a box prompting you to "Enter your comment".  Type over this and comment freely.  Once you have completed entering your comment you will notice it says at the bottom under the box "Comment as"; and then a drop down menu appears  labelled as "Select Profile". Click on Select Profile. From the drop down menu select either Google Account (if you have one) or Anonymous and then click the Publish button.  Should you choose Anonymous you can mention your name in your comments or you can remain Anonymous.  Either way I will be thrilled to know that my blog is being read and that I am successfully communicating my AA (African Adventure) .

Love YOU all.

National Holiday August 8, 2013 Eid

Eid Mubarak!

The end of one month of Ramadan is marked by one day of celebration known as Eid.  For we fellow non-Muslims we celebrate the day too: "Woot!  No work today!"   A curious factor about Eid is that the actual day is only determined through the sighting of the New Moon.  Different Muslim locations around the world will celebrate Eid on a different day (within 24 hrs) depending on when the New Moon is sighted. Now from a practical point of view how are you to plan your day off work when you can't be sure if the holiday is going to be (as in this year's) Thursday or Friday?  Paul came home Wednesday to advise that his Admin would text him later in the evening to advise whether the holiday would fall on a Thursday or a Friday.  So true to the whims of the moon the first moon sightings were made Wednesday night so Thursday, August 8/13 was Eid in Addis Ababa.  Let the holiday begin!  How did we spend Eid?  Hmmm, it began with sleeping in to 10 am.  Paul typically wakes to the sonorous sounds of his 6:30 AM alarm, so waking at 10 was a real treat for him and lately a typical morning for me.  After enjoying our morning coffee we drove to the Hilton to have brunch.  It was a nice day, warmer than earlier in the week and the sun felt good as we sat at the poolside patio restaurant.  This is wet season, so the day would not be complete without a rain shower or two.  I've been told that by September 11th the wet season will end and I will really be surprised at how quick and final the transition is from wet to dry season.  Well I will certainly believe that  "promise" when I see it. Hard to be anything less than skeptical when the familiar rumblings of thunder can be heard in the distance and the sun has been hidden by grey clouds and darkening skies. But I digress.  Eid, being a holiday means less cars on the road which translates to "easier" driving conditions. Paul's driving skills are quite amazing.  He has adapted extremely well to Ethiopian driving rules and by driving rules I mean there are no rules.  If you make the foolish assumption that fellow drivers are sticking to standard driving protocols (we North Americans adhere to) then be prepared to be enlightened.  Do not worry about the driver behind you, keep your eyes and ears open for those in front or beside you and remember, there are no rules so make it up as you go.  It's actually really surprising that traffic does seem to flow with a minimum of horn honking, angry gestures or time-delaying and annoying fender benders.  TIA people, so get in there and try it before you knock it. I will let you know, once my licence is granted, how I fare.
So we are back at our home after doing a bit of exploring around town.  Take a look at the pics we took in front of our home.  This gives you a sense of where we are living and also introduces you to Aynalem and her husband (our housekeeper) and Temesgen (our yard guy) and of course to complete the picture gallery: Lexxie.

Is this a Kat or Dog Blog?  I welcome her help!

Lexxie in search of wild game.

Is this all Africa has to offer?

Seriously, it's a Giraffe.  African big game is no big deal.

How many pictures of Lexxie do you think you need?

Temesgen, Aynalem and her Hubbie

Did I forget to mention Lexxie?

Family pic complete, except for our kids holding down things in Canada and England.

I heard that!

TIA

 There is an expression here in Africa which seems to cover off the frustration generated when  things take so long to happen, or why the power goes off at least once a day or why the internet is so wonky, or why your shipment  which landed July 6th is still not cleared or any number of daily annoying occurrences. It's called TIA or in other words This Is Africa.  The first time Paul said TIA I didn't understand the significance. I mean all of us have fallen victim to red tape (Canadian government) or rules that make no sense (no right turn except on the Island of Montreal; yeah, that clears up any confusion) or something dear to my heart, applying for Barbadian citizenship. Sure, but having an expression that sums it all up, people, this is a how you can smile through your pain and laugh the frustration away.  SMMBBJ,  (explanation to follow in a later blog), this too shall pass.    But seriously,  living as an Ex-Pat in Ethiopia, far from home, it's both unfair and unwise (if you choose to remain sane) to continually try and compare "stuff"  to home. This would be a waste of time and energy.  My time here will be better spent enjoying the new experiences and reconciling TIA with a famous Get Smart flash back, "....and loving it".  

The Joys of Jet Lag

It's a new month, August 1st and I am now beginning to lose the jet lag.  I'm pretty sure sleeping in every morning since we've arrived has helped and of course having all the pre-move stresses over.

We arrived in Addis in the morning @ 8:30, which translates with the 7 hour time difference to 1:30 am Ottawa time.  The key here is to stay up as long as you can so that your first night's sleep is a good one. We occupied our time unpacking the 5 bags and 2 rollys. Once that was completed we thought we would take a little nap.  Translation: 5 hours later we forced ourselves to get up otherwise it would be the beginning of "sleepness nights in Addis".

So now it's @ 4 pm and we decide to go out to eat.  The vehicle traffic on a Sunday is not heavy which is a relief because Addis traffic requires your full attention.  We went to a restaurant suitably called Oh Canada. This restaurant is run by an Ethiopian who lived @ 20 years in Ottawa.  She has definitely incorporated a Canadian theme to her place from the red and white decor and maple leafs everywhere, the pictures of stars from Celine Dion to the Guess Who, the Senator Jerseys and paraphernalia (Karlsson, sorry Alfie) to the unique menu choices from different provinces. The upstairs of Oh Canada is an Oasis Salon and Spa.  Paul has already been once for a haircut and I am certain I will be able to make use of the other spa facilities as well.   Dinner was enjoyable: Newfoundland Fish and Chips and Quebec Coq au Vin.

Once back at our home we stayed up till @ 9:30 and true to one's first night of sleep, it was wonderful.

Your second night of sleep is not nearly as good despite the fact that you have had a full night's sleep and a day of relaxed (for me) and regular work (Paul) activity.  We both fell asleep okay, but we were up @ 1 am wide-eyed. I took a sleep-ease and by @ 4 am I fell asleep.  Paul, the trooper, willed himself to go to sleep and Tuesday for him was a tough day.  Tuesday I woke at noon feeling guilty, but thankfully rested.  Tuesday night Paul decided to get a little help and he too took a sleep-ease.  He definitely rebounds quicker them me, but that may be because he's been doing it a lot longer.  Wednesday morning he awoke very refreshed which seriously at 6:30 AM what does that even mean?  I too, at 9:30 am, awoke refreshed.

I have to say that this sleeping in will no doubt get old pretty quick, but for now all I can say is: It's the jet lag!!