Kat's Ethio-Blog: The Do's and Don'ts of Driving in Addis: Personal Experience

I’ve been in Addis just over 4 months. Based on my observations I feel I am developing a more enlightened opinion of life in Ethiopia. I am adjusting to the obvious changes like weather, food, language and shopping opportunities, but my biggest adjustment has been driving. I believe the single biggest “don’t” is trying to compare driving in Addis to North American standards. Don’t! It is best to assume that the drivers beside, in front and behind you will, during the course of your travels, break at least one, if not all of those standard road rules we take for granted. By not making assumptions that signs will be obeyed, cars will stay in their own lane and not create new ones or turns or U-turns will only be made from the turning lane, you are better prepared to face and react to whatever “drives” your way.

The roads in Addis can be frustrating for drivers as roads run north/south, but there are no roads that bisect these main roads that would allow you to turn around. A stone median divides most roads and openings are spaced every 1 or 1.5 kms to allow for U-turns. The U-Turn method is the only means of changing direction without having to drive too far past your intended destination to find a roundabout. The openings are spaced to allow for 1 car at a time to turn (1 being the operative word). The sign in one direction will read U-Turn, but on the opposite side it reads No U-Turn because there isn't enough room for 2 cars to safely turn at the same time. Of course this doesn’t stop cars from trying. Drivers, “do” keep your peripheral vision finely honed. I use it whenever I am out driving. It’s not unusual for another car to make an illegal turn while you are turning. Also most drivers are not concerned with turning lanes. When they suddenly realize they need to make a turn they think nothing of cutting you off as they cut across lanes. The cars that blatantly ignore the No U-Turn signs usually succeed in plugging up traffic, to a barrage of horn honking.

Some drivers like to hedge their driving options by straddling the middle of the road even when there are two lanes. Your lane is further narrowed by taxis and buses stopping to pick up fares. There doesn’t appear to be actual bus stops so “do” be prepared to drive around an arbitrarily stopped taxi or bus. Actually driving around obstacles in the road is not limited to buses and taxis. There’s no telling when an errant donkey or sheep stray from the pack, or a pot hole appears ready to destroy your wheel suspension or the car in front just stops for a quick chat. Do be prepared to stop or swerve and “don’t” be afraid to use your horn.

The horn is a very useful feature on your vehicle. It allows you to announce your presence especially when you are attempting to pass a vehicle encroaching on your lane space. It’s used a bit too loudly, when traffic is grid locked, by drivers leaning on their horns. It’s annoying and doesn’t accomplish anything, but certainly not for lack of trying. It’s used to voice displeasure especially at police directing traffic at a 4-way intersection. The loudest horns are from those who feel the police are not being fair with the wait time. And of course horns are used as greetings. “Do” remember to listen for the distinction and “don’t” ignore the sound because it could save you time and money.

There are some speed limit signs, but they are few as speed is not really a problem in Addis. I can probably count the number of times I have reached the speed of 60 kms or more on one hand. The road conditions (as discussed above) are just not conducive to high speeds. You need to be alert and aware at all times of what the other guy is doing. I remember a few years back when my girls first asked to borrow the car. They were new drivers and initially I was hesitant. “But Mum, we’re good drivers. Don’t you trust us?” The answer would be the same then as it pertains now to driving in Addis. “Absolutely! It’s the “other” drivers I worry about!”

I will also mention that despite the chaotic adventure I experience every time I go out, I am no longer nervous when I get beind the wheel. I've come a long way from my first day. I feared I'd never get through an intersection unless it had police or working lights. Lo and behold drivers will let you in. I've come to appreciate that there exists a rudimentary "road etiquette" that keeps it all moving. It may defy North American sensibilties, but it works here.